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New Product Install: New Mid-Mount Gen III HEMI Front Accessory Drive – HEMI Swap Greatness!

One of the most annoying and frustrating parts of any late-model engine swap can be fitting a bunch of accessories that never came in your car up front and in between the engine and radiator. Whether you realize it or not, almost all of the late model V8 cars are considerably larger than their previous counterparts. A new Challenger is bigger than a 1970 Challenger, for example, and so is the underhood space. These new cars are designed to fit around all the stuff that needs to be on these late model engines, and the older cars weren’t. Thankfully the gang at Holley has come up with the solution. Their new Mid Mount accessory drive system is a game-changer.

When Holley came out with accessory drive systems for the LS engine it made swapping one into just about anything much less of a headache, and now Mopar fanatics are going to benefit from the same technology. Their bracketless design means everything fits tight to the block minimizing any chance of interference between accessories and the chassis, body, etc.

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Holley’s new Gen III Hemi Mid-Mount Accessory Drive Kits offers a simple, clean and reliable way to install all of the serpentine belt-driven accessories for your late-model Mopar engine onto our patent-pending bracket-less design. This allows the alternator, air conditioning pump, power steering pump, and everything else to be mounted tighter to the engine, making a Gen III Hemi swap an easier affair, regardless if you are using a VVT or non-VVT engine in your build! https://www.holley.com/products/engin…

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Nomex Split Loom! This Stuff Will Make Sure None Of Your Wiring Melts Under The Hood!

Horsepower means heat. Every automotive performance manufacturer knows it, and it is often a problem folks face in trying to keep stuff from melting on their high horsepower engine. Luckily, while engine components and management systems have come so far as to allow crazy power levels, heat protection systems have kept up to control temps so we can enjoy those power levels. But that doesn’t mean people use them properly. We regularly see folks who are stuck fixing wiring issues because they don’t protect their wiring bits properly from all the hot parts. We’ve been there ourselves. It is common to underestimate the temperatures achieved, and how far away wiring needs to be in order to stay safe. But with today’s wire shielding products, you can get away with much less room and keep things clean, cool, and working properly. One of those products is Holley’s new Nomex split loom for underhood wiring.

Here is all the info from Holley:

Temperatures under your hood can be brutal. Throw a supercharger or a turbo into the mix and things just get hotter. Holley EFI’s new Nomex Split Loom helps keep critical wiring safe from the heat. Nomex is a heat and flame-resistant fiber that won’t melt, drip, or support combustion, which helps to keep your wiring protected. Available in multiple diameters, Holley EFI Nomex Split Loom has an operating range of -76º to 392º F.

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If you have a Jeep in need of more power, and want a tried and true performer, then LS Swap it! Thanks to the folks at Holley you can do that easier than ever, and with complete systems that work together flawlessly. Check out all this cool new stuff for you Jeep freaks!

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Holley is pleased to announce the release of awesome new products this week. The big news involves the three Jeep Wrangler engine swap kits available that cater to GM LS, Gen-V LT and Gen III Hemi fans. There is also a new oil pan for Gen III Hemi swap projects and Holley EFI has expanded their line of dash bezels that will fit the Holley EFI digital dashes with ease in their project cars. Read on to learn more about these fantastic new products!

1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler (YJ) GM LS and Gen-V LT Engine Swap Systems

The Jeep Wrangler YJ GM LS & Gen-V LT Engine Swap Systems are now complete and these parts are available from Holley. The individual components were originally released separately over the last year or so, and this may have caused some confusion for resellers, distributors & customers. Many of the parts are common for both the GM LS Swap and the GM Gen-V LT swap, so both swap systems are shown on this release.

Each component part in these swap system are designed to work together with all the other components for a complete engineered hassle-free engine swap. The details of each part & the complete swap systems are shown on the 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ GM LS & Gen-V LT Swap Components landing pages of the Holley website (links are shown below):

1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler (TJ)  – Gen III Hemi Swap System

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The Jeep Wrangler TJ Gen III Hemi Engine Swap System is now complete and these parts are available from Holley. The individual components were originally released sepearetly over the last year or so, and this may have caused some confusion for resellers, distributors & customers.

Each component part in this swap system is designed to work together with all the other components for a complete engineered hassle-free engine swap. The details of each part & the complete swap system are shown on the 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ Gen III Hemi Swap Components landing page of the Holley website (link is shown below):

Gen III Hemi Engine Swap Oil Pans, Now Available for 2009-present 5.7L and 2011-present 6.4L

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Mopar’s popular Gen III Hemi engines are ideal for swapping into muscle cars since they are durable, reliable and make great power. The factory oil pans that come on these engine usually don’t fit and hang too low for your swap. These new cast aluminum oil pans fit 1963-1974 Mopar A-Body, B-Body, C-Body & E-Body vehicles. (See the Applications tab on the product page for complete vehicle application data.)

The cast aluminum construction & integrated windage tray on the oil pans combined with o-ring sealing provide an attractive leak-free solution for your engine swap. Complete oil pan kit that includes all the parts needed for installation (i.e. oil pan, pickup assembly, o-ring seal, windage tray, baffling & mounting bolts).

Holley EFI Dash Bezel Expansion

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I’m a big proponent of a fire system in any race car or fast street car, but with recent trailer fires making the news throughout the racing community, I think it’s time for everyone with an enclosed trailer to start taking fire danger, and automatic fire protection, more seriously. There are many different makers of fire systems for race cars, but the basics are super simple. Bottles of fire retardant are connected to tubing that runs through the vehicle to nozzles in strategic locations. In the event of a fire, either manual or automatic activation sends the retardant through the tubing and out the nozzles. Nozzles are usually placed so that they are aimed at important areas like the driver, or areas that would most likely be the source of the fire and fuel. Trailer systems are very similar, but contain more retardant and have nozzles placed throughout the trailer.

Like with my car systems, I prefer a system that has both manual AND automatic activation, and this system from FireAde has both. Their special Thermal Blocks automatically activate when the temperature at the block reaches 199 degrees. We are big fans of these Thermal Blocks because in the event that the driver is unable to activate the system during a run, the system will do its job on its own. The same goes for trailer systems. You might be driving down the road and have no idea it has caught fire inside. Or you may have it parked at the house or shop and by the time anyone knows it is on fire, it is too late. The other added benefit to FireAde is that should the system be activated it puts out the fire but does not make a mess. There is no cleanup, no powder to ruin things, no harmful chemicals.

But there are also a few passive, but automatic fire suppression products available as well. Items like the Elide Fire Fireball, seen below as well. These are designed to be placed in the compartment you are trying to protect. If a fire happens, the ball will melt and release the fire retardant and put the fire out. They are $120 on Amazon, for a 6 inch ball with bracket, which will protect 60 sq ft. So that’s approximately 7 feet of trailer length. So, a 24 foot enclosed trailer would need 4 of them hanging on the walls. If I was going this route, I wouldn’t go with less than 6, but that’s because I’d rather be safe than sorry.  Keep in mind, that while this option is cheaper the retardant is a powder that will need to be cleaned up and may be harmful to some stuff. But at least it won’t have burned to the ground.

There are other marine systems, which would work in the trailers, that are available, but most I found seem to be very expensive. For my money, these two options seem to be the best and most user friendly.

One other option, that I think would be good to have along with either of the systems below, is a smoke detector system from Advanced Wireless Technology. This system will give you a warning before the fire can spread, but in my opinion they should be used with Fire Suppression as well.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE Advance Wireless Technology Smoke Detector.

At $1,899 the FireAde Fire Suppression system below is a DEAL and will cover a typical 34 foot or smaller enclosed trailer. Have something bigger? Don’t worry, they can put together a custom system for your trailer.

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