1320 Tech Story

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Old School Repair: This Dude Welds A Crankshaft Back Together Like A Boss! It Was Broken In Two!

If you watch videos from other countries, where guys are doing repairs that would seem nearly impossible without modern tools, you start to appreciate and understand what our grandparents and great grandparents were doing to make similar repairs. It’s a true testament to how good something can be even without CNC machines or what have you. In this video, the only equipment used to fix this completely snapped crankshaft is a drill press, a stick welder, and a lathe. The lathe isn’t anything new, but it does seem to work well, and the guy using it clearly knows what he’s doing. But the lathe could be 50 years old or 5, it’s all the same.

Watch as this guy cleans and machines each end of the broken pieces, which might actually be from two different crankshafts, slides them together, indexes them, and then gets his arc welding on. He then straightens the crank, machines the crank, and finally drills the oiling holes in it and then sends it on its way to be used in some truck or what have you. It’s impressive and you’ll dig it.

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Dyno Proven 500 Horsepower Combos: Three Stock Bottom End 5.3 LS Combos That Will Make You 500 Horsepower Or More.

I get asked about LS engine combos all the time, and the overwhelming majority of them are from people who think that they need to build an engine with all aftermarket parts. When I ask them how much horsepower they want to make, the vast majority say something like 450 horsepower. This makes me shake my head, because making 400 to 500 horsepower is simple and doable if you have a 5.3 LS that runs. Stock they make 350 horsepower, so anything you do from there will make real power improvements. A camshaft and headers will make over 400, and when you combine an intake, heads, etc, there are real power numbers to be had. And then there’s nitrous! Okay that’s another video, these are completely naturally aspirated combos that are based on a stock bottom end 5.3L.

Check out Richard’s combos, dyno results, and more in the video below.

Video Description:

HOW DO I MAKE 500 HP WITH MY 5.3L? DO I NEED FORGED INTERNALS TO MAKE 500 HP WITH MY 5.3L? CAN MY 5.3L MAKE 500 HP WITHOUT BOOST? WHAT IS THE BEST CAM TO USE ON MY 5.3L? WHAT ARE THE BEST HEADS TO USE ON MY 5.3L? WHAT INTAKE SHOULD I USE ON MY 5.3L? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO ON THREE (3) DIFFERENT 5.3L BUILDS THAT NOT ONLY EXCEEDED 500 FLYWHEEL HP, BUT DID SO WITH THE STOCK BOTTOM END (STOCK BLOCK, CRANK, RODS AND PISTONS). ALL YOU NEED ARE THE RIGHT HEADS, CAM AND INTAKE (WITH HEADERS) AND YOU TOO CAN REACH THE 500-HP MARK.

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Built It Or Boost It? The Most Common Question I Get Asked About LS Engines. But This Time It’s A 5.0 Ford.

In this era of boost every junkyard combo possible, the number one question I get from people is what to do to their engine before adding boost. Back in the day, anything over 5-7 lbs meant that everyone was recommending pistons, rods, a crankshaft, etc. Since people have been boosting the hell out of the LS platform, with little or no modifications in many cases, folks are starting to wonder what modifications are really needed. The truth is that depends on what you are going to be doing with the engine in the long term and what its intended use will be. But what about other platforms besides the LS? What about a 5.0 Ford Small Block? This was one of the most boosted combos of the 1990’s, in the Fox and early SN95 Mustangs, where an entire industry of supercharger manufacturers enjoyed major growth.

So if I have a 5.0 in my Foxbody, do I need to do a lot to it before I boost it? Can I get away with just do a camshaft and springs and let’r rip with some real boost? Or should I go heads, cam, intake, etc and run lower boost? Like I said before, this is a real question I get asked all the time, and so does Richard, so that’s why this latest video is here and ready for you to watch and decide for yourself.

Here is Richard Holdener’s Video Description. Please LIKE, and SUBSCRIBE!!! It really does matter for Richard to keep making all this content.

TURBO 5.0L POWER-ADD MORE BOOST OR ADD MORE BUCKS? FULL RESULTS. IS IT BETTER (OR MORE COST EFFECTIVE) TO MAKE MINOR MODS (CAM & SPRINGS) TO YOUR 5.0L AND THEN TURN UP THE BOOST OR MAKE SOME MAJOR MODS (HEADS, CAM & INTAKE) THEN RUN LOW BOOST? WHICH ONE WOULD YOU CHOOSE?

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(Words and Photos by Todd Ryden) It’s summertime, it’s a hot one and there’s a severe shortage of events, however that doesn’t mean that you can’t hit the road and cruise! When it comes to driving in this extreme summer heat, one thing you have got to make sure is dialed in on your hot rod is the cooling system. Sitting at a light watching the temp gauge rise like your tach saps the fun right out of a nice cruise. When it came to cooling, our ’64 Chevelle had some issues. With a very timid 350 and factory A/C, the car has just never run as cool as we thought it should. It was equipped with a 4-row radiator and a pair of 20 year old electric fans, but rolling down the road on a warm day would still present +200-degree temps, and turning the A/C on would put it over the top – so what good is having A/C if you can’t use it in the heat? It was time for a solution, so we dialed up www.flex-a-lite.com to check out their direct fit radiators.

Flex-A-Lite has been designing and refining cooling solutions for nearly 60 years and with a couple key taps we found exactly what we needed; a direct bolt-in aluminum radiator built with their exclusive Extruded Tube Core Performance technology. Icing on the cake was that the radiator was also available with a fully shrouded 15” Black Magic Xtreme S-Blade electric fan with an adjustable thermostatic controller. And, it comes pre-mounted from the factory – sold!

So what exactly is the Extruded Tube Core technology built into the radiator? Traditional radiators have 2, 3 or 4 rows of oval tubes that the coolant flows through (hence the name 4-row or 4-core radiator). Rather than having these oval tubes surrounded by cooling fins, Flex-A-Lite uses an extruded core with several coolant passages across the entire thickness of the radiator core. This creates more contact between the coolant and the extruded tube which improves cooling.

The flat area of these extrusions provides an ideal surface to braze the cooling fins to maximize the contact between the tubes and fins for improved heat rejection. The cores are brazed together in a proprietary oven system and machine welded so there is no epoxy used at asdll. On top of that, the cooling fins themselves are treated to tiny louvers punched into them to direct airflow more efficiently. Cool stuff (sorry, couldn’t resist.)
When Flex-A-Lite said direct-fit, they meant an exact fit. We did have to change the upper hose due to the previous aftermarket unit having a different style outlet but who knows where that came from. The new S-Blade fan covers the entire core and is much more powerful than the small duals we had. Since we already had fan relays in place, we simply spliced the original fan connector to the new one.

The Flex-A-Lite radiator and electric fan combo made a noticeable difference to the temp of our Chevelle, both while on the road and when sitting in traffic (thanks in part to the efficient Black Magic Extreme fan. At steady cruising we’re running consistently 10-15-degrees lower temps and while stopped at lights, the fan actually lowers the temp to where the fan cycles off – the old setup couldn’t do that.

Flex-A-Lite offers a long list of direct fit radiators as well as versions for specific LS swaps. The LS swap models have the inlet and outlet on the passenger side, plus they include a threaded port in the side tank to connect to the LS engine steam tubes. Check out the Extruded Tube Core radiators as well as their transmission and engine oil coolers. Make yourself, and your engine, happy on those hot summer cruises.

SIDEBAR
BEFORE/AFTER
We wanted to try to be able to show the improvements between our old cooling system and the new Flex-A-Lite unit so before tearing into the Chevelle, we took it for a six mile loop through town and a couple miles on the highway. Then, we let it sit and idle at the shop for 10 minutes while we checked the temps near the upper inlet and lower outlet with a temp gun. We also had a dash gauge and a temp value from the EFI system.
After the drive we measured only a couple degrees between the inlet and outlet temps of the radiator. No wonder the engine wasn’t cooling. Plus, the fans were never able to pull the temp down enough to cycle off.
With the Flex-A-Lite radiator and fan installed, we hit the road for our same six mile trek through town followed by a 10-minute idle soak. The gauges both showed a 10-15 degree drop while just cruising without the fan even running. We also recorded about a 20-degree difference between the inlet and outlet. Quite a drop compared to the old radiator!
The car definitely runs cooler and the single fan pulls the temp down to where the fan actually cycles off while we’re at a stop. In short, the Flex-a-Lite update definitely made us cooler and we can actually enjoy cruising again and using our A/C.


No matter how hard we try with drip pans, inevitably, there will be a mess. Coolant system or trans fluid…bring in the kitty litter.


On the right is the mount that aligns with the factory radiator support for a bolt-in fit. Note the sturdy electric fan mount which also includes a rubber seal around the fan shroud to ensure the fan draws air in and across the fins.


Flex-A-Lite includes a 22-24 pound cap is included to seal the coolant and control the pressure. Note the screw-in overflow nipple. No cheesy soldered one to break off one day.


Sitting side by side, you can see how many more rows of fins the new unit has by replacing the upper and lower tank. Also, the single fan covers as much, and more, room than the old duals.


Flex-a-Lite offers a controller for the electric with an adjustable activation point. We didn’t install the controller (yet) because our EFI system handles the temperature activation. With plans for a new carb test in our future, the controller will be put to good use soon.


For our overflow tank, we simply made a simple aluminum bracket that bolted to the fan mount.


The install was about as bolt-in as possible and we saw immediate results in the cooling capabilities of the new Flex-A-Lite radiator and fan. We’re cool again! (We also noticed how much TLC our Chevelle needs under the hood in the detailing department.

Source:
Flex-A-Lite
www.flex-a-lite.com
Tech : 253-922-2700

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